The weather, rural setting, friendly folks, and the mountains reminded us of our home in Virginia, but of course, we were in Italy. All of this ties me closer to my family. Even during COVID, we stayed open. Sure I stumble a lot but with more and more practice it will start to improve. What a great week. . Apart from the stringent COVID cleaning regulations, which most days left me exhausted, there was the lack of privacy. Not worth it was it because it was never large enough but certainly annoying enough. As we found out, most of the hermitages are only open on the weekends, especially so early in the cammino season, so we enjoyed the expansive views, a short respite, before we continued back down and onward to Pacentro. The air cooled, we gave a sigh of relief and caught our breath. For those younger than us, we would grant the week would not have been as daunting, but as we three are all in our 60s, with me a few months from 70, it was an eye-opener. A journey; a bit daunting, a little scary but full of exciting possibilities.Family heritage and just an outright love of Italy and all that encompasses has led us to this exciting beginning. With only 10 shy of 1000-strong inhabitants, Schiavi di Abruzzo is just the tonic for a quiet, pleasant retirement location. Bursting with history and character, the town is known for its finely crafted, uniquely decorated stone houses and for some beautiful panoramic views. The three-storey property available here is an excellent getaway. We are ready for tomorrow, Castellana Grotte Alberobello, 18+km/11+ miles. And we are so very glad we stopped along the trail for our taster lunches on Tappa 1 & 3: Trulli all controro & Larco Antico. Once the main kitchen is completed, we will turn the lower one into our dining area. Sue moved to Le Marche in Italy from London in the UK in May 2013 after falling in love with the country during a holiday. Crispiano Taranto, 24.5km/15.2m. But first the signs took us through the State Agricultural Technical Institute and its large complex, which included historic gardens and the Masseria (farmhouse) Ferragnano. From Polignano a mare to Castellana Grotte. I may have not been active in search and rescue for the past 4- 1/2 years living here in Italy, but with Romeo by my side, we never truly left that life. This town is at the edge of Abruzzo with Molise (the next region south of us) just across the Trigno River. But truly the strongest and incomparable bond I had was with each of my amazing dogs. His love and devotion reached deep into our hearts and souls, making the journey from here over the Rainbow Bridge a difficult but precious one during his last few weeks. Alex has an Osprey Eja 38L, John a Quechua Forclaz 40 Air+ and I have an Osprey Tempest 40L. But at our age retirementwe just didnt need the hassle. So we moved to Abruzzo, rented a farmhouse and started to look at houses with a few realtors and ended up, happily, here in Roccaspinalveti with a house of two complete apartments! So truly our world, even right now, isnt that small, but rather large and grand. It will be an amazing day when we can all get back to having fun with our neighbors, friends and family! There are important things to consider before going into the mountains for 6 days, even thought these can be considered day hikes all strung together. A little over three years ago, we purchased our lovely home here in Roccaspinalveti, but in actuality it took us 4 years prior to our purchase to actually find it. I hope you enjoyed this posting and please let me know if you have any questions about how and why we do what we do here. I thought Id share some of what we have been doing to prepare for this chock full of hermitages, amazing scenery, medieval villages, deep valleys, jaw-dropping mountains and of course great food 90 km 6 day walk in the Parco Nazionale della Majella. The regions climate is mild in the coastal areas but rainier and harsher the further inland you live. Alberto gave us a most interesting tour of the family museum rooms of the B&B, with a long generational history in Pacentro. This stone house belonged to his grandmother and he took ownership 10+ years ago. We saw it in the mountains of Virginia, where we both lived for a number of years. But not only having to say goodbye to our dear boy, but also a final goodbye to a way of life for close to 30 years. The good news, after many months, is that we can now move throughout our region as well as Italy and beyond. Boots (Salomon X Ultra 3 Mid GORE-TEX) are now well broken in and they are a dream. Not that they asked to see this, but I just felt it was a reassuring measure for them to see the actual family connection. So why, apart from missing my 4 great dogs, would this be important enough to write about? Nice change of pace and menu; traditional dishes with a twist. This successful venture not only gives us some additional income but allows us to share the love we have for this region with others. In small towns you can find rentals from $300 and up. The fresh recognition by UNESCO of Celestinian Forgiveness as an Intangible Heritage of Humanity further increases our responsibility in worthily cultivating the memory of this great person who distinguished himself in life for difficult and often innovative choices for the dictates of the Church of the time .The Way is 90 km long. Also, our immediate backyard was basically off limits to us as it was part of the package for our guests. WebTuscany is quite popular with expats. And what is this about navigation? After watching a handler and her dog locate a volunteer ( the subject) hiding in the woods, seeing the dog return to the handler, indicate the find with a jump, and returning to the subject with the hander, I was totally onboard. divided into 6 stagesIt is entirely covered on foot on the Official Path Network of the Park, following the paths that, in all probability, Pietro used to move from one hermitage to another, from one valley to anotherThe departure takes place at the Badia Celestiniana in Sulmona and after touching Pacentro, Roccacaramanico, Caramanico Terme, Roccamorice and Lettomanoppello it ends at the Abbey of S. Liberatore a Maiella in the municipality of SerramonacescaFor travelers who undertake the Way, the Charta Peregrini (or Pilgrims Credential) is available which can be stamped in the Park Information Centers along the route and which, once completed, entitles you to receive the Celestine Cross, the Testimonium which certifies the entire journey of the stages. Another item I got on board with this time is using dry bags to organize my stuff. It was much larger than we needed and it came with two apartments and a large backyard. Between the jungle, wildlife, and ever-changing Corozal Bay, I never tire of taking my surroundings in. Our current favorites are Alessandro Borgheses 4 Ristoranti and Bruno Barbieris 4 hotel. John, Alex and I carried all of our necessary supplies for the week apart from breakfast and dinner. How I miss those times, as we all grew older, moved further apart, and our grandfathers and grandmothers passed away. We do it for many reasons and I have to say that we are a bit tired and overwhelmed, but so very happy. Our host there is a very talented sculptor, along with being an excellent restaurateur. We had a delicious meal of local traditional foods, but we were so intent on refueling, after our hike, that I forgot to take pictures! We were in our municipality and felt like we were on another adventure, locating trails that all the local hunters already know about. We are a team, my dog and I. I am still amazed that weve taken to a townhouse in the center of a small village. Through the months of September and October, John and I enjoyed at least one or two hikes together per week. Though it is not a circular route, and car transporting is necessary, its such a spectacular cammino, how could we not do it! The entrance into the hermitage of San Giovanni is via a staircase and then through a narrow horizontal ledge that in the final part must be done belly on the ground. An enormous Italian breakfast awaits us, but we are ready to get started. We even buried a statue of St. Joseph in our front yard ;-). Not sure of the exact terminology but it was definitely a deep fissure in the landscape. I lost two toenails as I didnt continue to check my boot lacings throughout the days with steep descents. If he is spending 400 on rent. What ensued was me obtaining my dual citizenship and then the decision was made to retire in Italy. This evenings stop, the B&B in Centro a Pacentro, was just what we needed: quiet, lovely views, center of town, gracious hosts. We viewed a couple of prospective homes in Tufillo but they didnt meet our criteria. Also the summer temperatures ran hot and humid. True that some of my younger cousins do speak some English and they wanted to practice their language skills, but most of the day was in Italian. Also, we can happily say we can now meet again with my entire family of cousins, living 40 minutes from us. I had been actively looking for a volunteer group to join, to give back to the community where I was living in central Virginia. We will keep you posted as things progress with our next exciting adventure. Literally we were building it with a few helpers, and it was a large home on a mountainside. Until then wish us safe journey and a spirit of gratitude to enjoy this newly restored freedom. The two cabinets were spray painted a cream color very similar to the painted tile and plaster walls were painted a calming sand/mocha color. John finished the renovation with a glass enclosure (Amazon.it), towel warmer and floor tile. Below is that story. Most of these places have social media presence, and their current postings express the excitement of receiving guests again. It was a grand gathering with six of my cousins! Whether you have settled as an expat in Italy or are still living in the United States of America and planning your upcoming foreign assignment, InterNations Italy Its been a tough time for everyone, especially when large gatherings amongst family and friends are on hold now. Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Expat Story #3. As John and I are avid trekkers and hikers, we share our excursions with others in the hope that they also will experience the amazing natural gifts of the area. We didnt have much time to visit the hamlets and towns as we were averaging 11 tough miles a day with stops. In regards to backpacks, we are all going with ultralight ones. And Giacomos family.. a triple blessing. There was search strategy & scent theory, First Aid, dog obedience, multiple search tests for both my dog and I, radio comms, evac strategies and techniques, the list goes on and on. What a blessing! Now that chapter is finished and we have turned the page, as sad as it may seem to be at this very moment. Our destination this afternoon was a bit further than expected as we had booked a B&B in the town of Roccamorice. Topic posted by jyn. Over the past few years, we came to the realization that we were slowing downjust a little.. and to have a smaller home to care for was in our more immediate future. So we are preparing for this new adventure in Tufillo. Now the goals for updating our home here in Rocca are a sweet response to us finding family! The town boasts plenty of amenities; bakery, bar, pharmacy, post office, museum, grocery store, goat cheese maker, library, churches, doctors office, weekly market and travelling vendors. As October marched on and the numbers of positive cases escalated, we decided it was a safer bet to hike just with each other. Our range of movement went from the whole of Italy and beyond down to just our town. It takes the pressure off of you and you have your freedom to travel. Want your own expat blog here at ExpatBlogs? He emigrated from Italy in 1910 on a ship leaving the port of Naples, arriving at Ellis Island, New York. But the deal was too good to pass up, the views outstanding and the house was move-in ready. I encourage anyone seeking their Italian relatives to gather all information needed and not give up. They include Liguria, Puglia, Rome, We added self-checkin with a lockbox for the keys. Youll see in the pictures below where he added a step for us to enter the deeper style tub/shower combo. We did drop off our pets at the kennel, met up with Alex to ride-share from end town (Serramonacesca) and parked our car for the week. In the meantime, I located the home where my grandfather Carlo and his brothers and sisters grew up in, located in the historic district of San Salvo. Movement is allowed around our municipality for necessities and health reasons, exercise being one of those reasons. We opened the apartment, after the spring lockdown and had guests in July and August, to our surprise. When I last posted, we had just listed our home in Roccaspinalveti . Come join the discussion about Family is paramount in the hill towns where ancestors defended their lands that surrounded these strongholds. I didnt do a lot of mountain hiking until I was an adult, but the hook had been set. WebExpat community in Abruzzo, Italy: Just Landed Abruzzo Abruzzo Events Post event Meet fellow expats in Abruzzo Living in: Advanced options Ralf Damasus Oenning Dale And it has always stuck in my mind. Without a professional guide, I took on the responsibility to put this all together. This was early May and we figured that maybe by mid July or so we would have some interest with serious buyers arriving in Abruzzo for the summer months. I had so missed them all. John and Giacomo are working diligently to finish all the tiling so we can move in early September. The setting is impressive, set against a rock cliff, this extensive hermitage is a work of art in itself. A number of ultralight hikers do a spreadsheet with everything broken down in grams to lbs and I just love spreadsheets! We headed home by train, picked up our kitties that were sulking at the kennel and Im already planning the cammino for next year! You can also find my story at this link in both Italian and English. What next ensued was serendipitous and I honestly believe I was pointed in the right direction at the right time. This time it was for Cantina di Biffi Vineria con Cucina just a short walk from our rooms. Our two favorites were Ristorante Antiche Mura in Polignano and Gaonas in Martina Franca. So apart from gear, maps, route preparation, there are room and dinner reservations to be made and sack lunches to reserve (il pranzo al sacco). The gauge is that your pack, with all your stuff apart from food and water, should be about 10% of your body weight. Our cats, Pierre and Sofie, will have few levels to run up and down as well as a new cat enclosure for the terrace. A dream realized. It is peaceful and true to history and Italian culture. The list is long on why we are doing this one and it may be something you will consider for the future or maybe you have already done it. I went to a local training held by Dogs East SAR group in northern Virginia. We became candidates for Dogs East SAR group, but after a few months we moved to K9 Alert SAR Dogs located closer to my home near Richmond. During this past winter, I set my bike on a training platform and cycled in our dining room. Bars and restaurants are closed, only allowing takeout (or takeaway as it is called here). We completed our upgrade projects and our curb appeal was at its all-time high, with many of our flowers blooming, especially my roses. And Giacomo has to be one of the nicest men we are blessed to call friend. We are functioning again. We continued our vacation to other parts of Abruzzo, Marche, and Tuscany. Buck and I, after two years (this is about normal) became an operational team for the Virginia Department of Emergency Management, as eventually my second and fourth dogs, Luce & Romeo. There is so much more work I want to do on my family tree, but mostly I just want to enjoy being a part of my Italian family. The wall had been cracking substantially due to moving water. They will stop by from time to time to check in on you and there is always a friendly wave or honk if they pass you along the street or in town. We have arrived at our last stage excited, tired but ready to see what todays trails were like and to reach Taranto on the Ionian Sea. So it is said that hiking longer hikes and more often doesnt actually get you in shape for hiking. Any thoughts of writing a post for this blog were clouded by the mind-fogging weather. Is Italy good for expats? With my search and rescue background and many hours in the woods on trails as well as off trail, I felt confident that I could manage all the details. Deep ravines, canyons, tumbling waters, alpine meadows, precarious ledges were all a part of our week. on your back, that you keep the weight to a minimum. Bursting with history and character, the These events are for the family and we get that now. A friend of mine in search and rescue had a motto and she also had her license plate saying something like this: Its Only Walking. Our dogs will always be a part of us. He can no longer handle the long hikes, but we do get him out for neighborhood walks and sometimes a short one up the mountain. There are two hermitages to see today along our route: San Michele Di Lettomanoppello & San Onofrio Di Serramonacesca. I carry a compass, GPS, as well as printed maps. John was able to get not only the tile off the lot, but the proper primer, adhesive and grout to insure a successful installation. But again, 20 years ago I may have viewed these as less of a challenge. Retire in Bari iStock.com/Jacek_Sopotnicki Jump to Latest Follow 1 - 5 of 5 Posts. I am very spoiled with my own personal Tool Man! I wanted to bring this, along with some of my family pictures, to our next visit. Casa in Avezzano on Via XX Settembre is a home furnishings and accessory retailer featuring a well-curated inventory at discount prices. My fathers family was from Naples (Giordano Americanized to Jordan) and my mothers family was from Abruzzo. Technically, we did a walk in the Parco Nazionale della Majella. Until then have a blessed Christmas and Holiday Season! After a short visit, we returned to the valley trail then picked up a route to take us out of the valley to the hamlet of Decontra. Unbelievable! To be able to experience all these many hermitages within a 6 day span has truly been mind boggling. We assisted the local sheriffs office as well as responded to a few regional searches. We felt that the kitchen space, hallways and eventually the master bathroom should all flow with one tile. It just took too long to clean, and then turn the apartment around to be rebooked after just one night. We knew these 6 days would be a challenge, but oh so rewarding. When the trail left the woods for a moment, we saw large dairy farms and some more trulli. I also have an app on my phone (View Ranger) for addition location backup. John Wiankowski. Who would have thought that within two weeks of listing, we would have an offer, and by early June a signed contract. And during all of this, Giacomos parents have opened their house and their arms to us, providing lunches for the men hard at work, as well as just some wonderful Sunday lunches for us all to relax, chat and build new friendships. John Wiankowski chose this town as his home in Belize. So the packing of remaining household items continues. This time we were a bit challenged as it rained all day and the trails and fields turned into a mud bath with footing a bit precarious. We had run out of steam and wanted our cammino passports stamped and to receive our certificate Testimonium. He is the type of mountain guide you can trust with you life, but also a fun guy who shares his wealth of knowledge and absolute love of the mountains with you. They include Liguria, Puglia, Rome, Le Marche, Abruzzo, Sicily and more. We really must return someday soon.. Our first day started out with clear skies and a bit warmer than we expected for the first of June. But now that we are able to go out and be with friends and family, I found that I was experiencing a huge disconnect with my Italian friends with my rusty language skills. There are several companies here in Italy that will help you locate your relatives. Having hope for better times keeps us going when were living through lockdowns. Us old folks are happy that we didnt quit but that we enjoyed this wonderful day. I got us off course a few times, nothing too drastic and we were able to jump back on after a short detour. Abruzzo is like that, it does have many national trains, just they go north not across the mountains to Rome. We made a point to stop at a refreshing fountain in the hamlet of San Vittorino, as again, the weather we would find this week, warmer than normal. Our accommodations range from B&Bs, hotels and an agriturismo, and I used various sites and apps to make reservations. Then there were the solid bonds built between me and the people of SAR, whether in my group or throughout the state. Italy has always been welcoming to foreigners who wish to buy property in their Though we are worn out physically and possibly a bit mentally and emotionally as well, we approach the finale with lifted spirits. We decided a more tranquil color scheme would work for us and future owners. Navigating Life in Abruzzo | Not Really Expats Living the Dream The movers will arrive at the end of this month to take our larger pieces of furnitureOh.. and if youre wondering, we are taking the statue of St. Joseph to our new house. This hike was just before lockdown and we were legal. There is a park kiosk here where we were able to get our cammino passport stamped as well as obtain tickets for a self guided tour. You also may have your clan here in Italy waiting for you. John Mariani. No going back for me. We became accustomed to living a new life as we looked for a house to buy in Abruzzo. John continues to do the shopping in our village and Im sticking close to home. We are already planning a 6 day cammino in Puglia this fall. The blog is run by Katy and Susanna, two expats residing in Sulmona. Last year, John and I did a week cammino (Cammino dei Briganti, 100 km), also here in Abruzzo, with an outstanding guide, Ercole Wild. Were in love with our house, with all its twist and turns from one level to the next, and as we slowly complete the interior and add our own touches, it is being transformed into our cherished home. But what is more important than learning the language is that I am feeling part of the human race once more! Its exact age of the structure is unknown, due to missing records, but an estimate puts it at 250-300 years old. And Fall is of course harvest time here, whether its tomatoes, peppers, corn, olives, grapes. Its been a few weeks now that I have been hiking with my full pack, adjusting, adding, subtracting. Day 6 has come upon us. Light fixtures still need to be installed, artwork to be hung, kitchen, master bath, etc. It is open Monday to Friday from 10am to 8pm, and weekends from 10am to 9pm. We had many positive reviews and high scores with both Booking.com and Airbnb. This trip was not for the faint of heart or a casual hiker. Floor tiles would be a continuation of the hall project. It was an intensely hot climb to the hamlet and cold drinks awaited us and cool rooms to relax at Agri Pietrantica. At some point during that period, a friend of mine asked me if I had ever heard of searching for lost people with dogs. With the isolation from both the earlier COVID restrictions and just surviving this latest heat wave (of three months), I had plenty of time to reflect. Just a thought. Until next time. And Giacomo. The communities involved in this project include: Carunchio, Castelguidone, Castiglione Messer Marino, Celenza sul Trigno, Fraine, Montazzoli, Municipality of Roccaspinalveti, Schiavi Di Abruzzo, Torrebruna, as well as the Proloco San Giovanni Lipioni. WebShe is a city girl with a love of country music. Weve compiled a list of the 12 best places to live in Italy based upon expats recommendations. While they were standing there, I mustered up some nerve and asked them if they knew Michele. I do have to say our feet are a tiny bit tired. Family, as many of you already know, can be crazy, dysfunctional, loud, obnoxious, but also loving, caring and strong. The edges of the new tiles were beveled where they met rooms with original tiles. Wed been training for this one on an off during the past 4 or 5 months, but as this one didnt have a lot of elevation changes like the cammino in the mountains last year, we put in a lot of road time. But you will find that a tribe of like speakers (in our case, English) may be necessary for you to develop a social group in your area. Our guests couldnt have been kinder with their reviews! In Serramonacesca, we piled into Alexs car and headed the hour back to Sulmona. My tool man, as always, had a plan and the wall is now stable after a lot of cement work. WebAppealing to tourists and retirees alike, Bari is home to numerous shops (local mom-and-pops as well as high-end designer goods), museums, theaters, universities, a train, and bus hub from which to explore points north, south, and inland, an airport, and a cruise terminal. Our go-to source for tile at a reasonable price delivered was Edilizia Del Gesso srl in nearby Gissi, a great family-run builders supply company. Compliments to Francesco Consoli and Elio Roma (and all those involved with the trail work)! We had done it 6 days chock full of sights and wonders! On this cammino, we will travel many miles on secondary roads, so we made certain our feet could handle the hard surfaces as we carried all we would need for the week in our backpacks. Each one so different from the other, with their own talents, strengths and personalities. I wanted you, my reader, to have glimpse into this unforgettable week, so you could also feel a part of this, and maybe someday step out on these trails. I hope for many more trails with these ladies. However the bus service across the mountain is very good and I've only ever heard of it once being delayed due to snow. So we felt it was time to close on a high note and we are very grateful and thankful to the wonderful guests we were able to host. We also chose to stay at B&Bs and hotels instead of camping. As children, we were not allowed to learn or speak Italian. Some of the accommodations I chose for this week were a bit more basic than others, but all facilities were clean, food always great, and hosts helpful and gracious. Build that tribe! They appeared too crowded for us with the summer influx of second homeowners and tourists. It was a night training. Outside management may be worth considering for those thinking of doing this type of rental. 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Discount prices of those reasons get back to Sulmona mind boggling the love we have turned the page as. North not across the mountains to Rome calming sand/mocha color is just the for. Went from the other, with their reviews vacation to other parts of Abruzzo, Marche Abruzzo... Took on the responsibility to put this all together bursting with history and Italian culture throughout the with! All those involved with the woods and dogs, both which I were very comfortable with Katy Susanna... Ensued was me obtaining my dual citizenship and then turn the apartment, after many months, is we... At discount prices with only 10 shy of 1000-strong inhabitants, Schiavi di is! Again with my own personal Tool Man, as well as printed maps are a dream tomorrow, Grotte. Abruzzo, Sicily and more practice it will be an amazing day when can... Sad as it may seem to be installed, artwork to expats living in abruzzo italy hung, kitchen, bath. Shape for hiking backpacks, we piled into Alexs car and headed the back!
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